I have now spent almost one full day in India. My honest emotions: I am scared and just focussed on getting through.
Yesterday, I left Sean at the airport. I was in tears … scared to venture out into such a strange world without him. Am I strong enough? Probably. I always have been. But, this feels worse than usual.
Upon arriving, it wasn’t until we got outside the airport that the differences started to present themselves. The airport is like travel purgatory … generally the same no matter where you are … at least before you get through customs. When outside though, you could start to see the mounds of trash and dirt … a parking lot in disarray relative to Western lots.
A man came up to our vehicle where our driver was loading our luggage into the trunk. He immediately picked up Grant’s bag and started putting it in the trunk. Silly me – I assumed this man was somehow connected with Tata, perhaps a friend of the driver that would be riding with us. The driver did not react and let this other man help, as if they were friends or co-workers. Then, when he finished, the stranger asked us for a tip. I was quick to find my wallet and plucked out a pound coin. Grant handed it to him, and the man pressed, “Only one coin? Come on!” So I handed Grant another pound coin – my last. Then, the man said, “Come on! Three coins for three bags!” I told Grant I had nothing left, just a few pense, as I started to get the feeling that this was too much. The driver finally told the guy to bugger off, and as we pulled away, we calculated that I had given the guy 166 Rupees. Considering that we receive 200 Rupees per day as an allowance, we decided that I definitely had given too much. Later we laughed as we realized that the average daily wages in India are around 134 Rupees and with my 166 Rupees, the guy could have bought 11 bellybutton bindhis or 6 Mars bars or 2 meals at a restaurant.
The drive was jarring. Tons of people, traffic, and crazy driving – okay, that was expected (thanks to Rajan for the gentle introduction to Indian driving while still in the UK). But, more alarming was the endless rows of shanty houses on the sides of the highways, made out of corrugated steel and tons and tons of blue tarpaulin. (One could make a fortune selling blue tarpaulin around here.) People are so used to this highway-side living that they hang their laundry on the guardrails.
We kept driving and driving and we never seemed to get away from these shanty homes. Just as I finished a chapter in Grant’s “Culture Shock: India” book on dealing with beggars, a little girl came up to my car window at a stop light. She tapped on the glass and with a sad face, pointed to her mouth. The book advised not to give to these children as they are the pawns of adult beggars who rely on tourist aid. So, I shook my head no and put my nose back in the book.
We arrived at the Tata house at around 2 or so. I think we were all relieved to see that it is a reasonably nice place. We’re on the 15th floor of a high rise. The rooms are clean and there’s even cable TV (a Philips!). I’m glad not to be here alone, but I think we all agree: we were all too busy to prepare properly for this trip and have relied quite a lot on Tata to protect and take care of us. I feel well protected, but I am scared. Wish I didn’t have to lug along this lifeline – my computer – or my beloved camera. Only adds to my anxiety. I look forward to getting to Mithapur, which certainly must be a bit more manageable (in size) than Mumbai, as well as a bit of a Tata oasis. I need to be brought into this rather gently, I think.
Tomorrow will be a long day in the Tata offices with dinner at night. The offices are in the more touristy part of town, and I hope the sun is shining. Surely that will make this place seem much better.
Cannot wait to make connection with Sean and my parents. I managed to text Sean and his text back (“Tell your man servant I say “hello!”) was very comforting … as is his New England Patriots t-shirt I’m wearing right now.